HELPFUL TIPS
Why Aerate?
Benefits of Aeration

Once the stresses of summer have wreaked havoc on your lawn and the moderate temperatures of early fall set in, it is time to repair the damage that has been done. On clay- or silt-type soils, or any soil type for that matter, soil sealing and compacting can seriously impair turf growth. Grass roots are injured because air, water and fertilizers cannot reach them in sufficient quantities. Mechanical core aeration, which breaks through this barrier, is essential for continued turf health. Fertilizer applications following aeration most efficiently provide nutrients to the turf roots. We apply an 18-24-12 fertilizer which hastens germination and promotes rapid root development. Also, after aeration, the plugs which are left behind assist in breaking down thatch.

Aeration is best done by power equipment that pulls out small cores of soil every 3 to 4 inches. Unlike other companies, we double aerate all turf areas. This maximizes the number of holes created, allowing twice as much seed to germinate and twice as much fertilizer to get to the root zone. We use the highest quality turf type tall fescue blend. This blend has a 99 percent germination rate, when irrigated properly.

Aeration should be done at least once a year. We believe that spring aeration creates a prime environment for weed germination. Therefore, early fall is the best time for all cool season grasses. The earlier these steps are taken, the more time the grass has to mature and root in before winter arrives. This in turn will make for a better spring turf.

Large bare spots in the yard need special attention and are not included in the standard aeration price. Depending on size, the areas need to be renovated or hand scratched and seeded.

If you have an invisible dog fence and/or an irrigation system we will work with you to get them marked before aeration begins. We look forward to making your lawn the most attractive in the neighborhood.

Rules for Watering
Shallow, frequent sprinkling to add a little water each day is the worst way to water a lawn. It only encourages shallow, weak roots, crabgrass and disease development. Before sunrise, irrigate to full depth of the root system. Then wait until the supply is nearly exhausted before watering again. But, do not let the grass undergo drought stress. The key here is duration, not frequency. It is better to irrigate for longer periods of time and less frequently than vice-versa.
Bluegrass and red fescue roots may not reach depths greater than 4 to 6 inches during the summer. About one inch of water (620 gallons per 1,000 square feet) can be stored in an average Missouri soil to this depth, and this should last about a week. A reasonable rule for summer lawn irrigation is to apply enough water in addition to natural rainfall to total one inch per week. On sandy soils that cannot store this much, greater frequency with lesser amounts may be required. During the heat of summer, it may be necessary to irrigate an extra day, to compensate for the lack of rainfall and extreme heat.
Don't guess at how much water must be applied to reach desirable wetting depth. Place tall, straight-sided cans in the sprinkler pattern. Measure water depth in the cans when the root zone is thoroughly wetted, that is, when puddles and runoff begin to form. Thrust a small probe (screwdriver) into the soil. Decreased resistance to the probe in wetted soil can help gauge depth of wetting.
Most sprinklers apply water faster than soil can absorb it. Few established lawn soils in Missouri can absorb 1/2 inch per hour; many absorb much less. To prevent waste, move sprinklers frequently. Properly engineered permanent irrigation systems with timing controls for "interval watering" do the best job. A soaker hose is also an excellent choice.
Steep slopes, hard spots and hot areas require special attention. Mechanical aeration, extra slow watering and use of wetting agents may help water infiltration
Keep these things in mind and it will help you minimize the damage a St. Louis summer can do to your lawn.

Why not mulch my leaves with the mower?
We believe that the potential harm you can cause to your lawn by repeatedly cutting over leaves outweighs the potential benefits of leaving the organic matter on the turf. Sure, you are leaving an all natural substance on the lawn, which, at some point could benefit the lawn, but too much of anything is not good. As the chopped up leaf particles build up, they can actually smother the grass. This causes the turf to thin out, opening the door for weeds. The leaf matter does not break down fast enough to provide an immediate benefit to the lawn. For these reasons, we believe the leaves should be cleaned before any fall cuttings.